Walk This Way: Unforgettable Via Ferrata Adventure in the Pasubio Dolomites

With my feet firmly on a narrow rock ledge, I unclipped the first carabiner from the steel cable and reclipped it on the next segment. I unclipped and reclipped the second carabiner and moved my left foot along the narrow ledge. Then I moved my right foot and slid my right hand along the cable. In this way, I carefully traversed the limestone rock face and inched my way to the metal ladder bolted into the rock. With both carabiners securely clipped into the cable next to the ladder, I ascended to the top rung, pulling my body weight over each step.

This climbing technique is called via ferrata – literally, “iron path” in Italian. During World War I, the Italian army established a network of cables, rungs, and ladders in the Dolomite Mountains as a way for soldiers to move from one location to another in the high peaks. These routes are still available to climbers today, and that’s how we found ourselves high on a rock ledge wearing climbing harnesses, helmets, and gloves. Under the expert guidance of our friend and certified mountain guide, Roberto Iacopelli, we enjoyed four days of exhilarating via ferrata expeditions in the Pasubio Dolomites.

One day we climbed to the top of Monte Cornetto before descending through a beautiful forest of beech trees decked out in fall colors to Refugio Campogrosso where we spent the next two nights. The refugio, or mountain chalet, offered comfortable beds, hearty local dishes, and stunning views of the mountains and valleys. Specialties included smoked ricotta gnocchi, polenta, local wine, homemade panna cotta, and braised pig knuckle for the brave.

Another day we tackled several steep pitches on the Strada delle 52 Gallerie (Road of 52 tunnels), a military mule road built in 1917 during WWI. A masterpiece of engineering, it took 600 workers only nine months to blast 52 tunnels and complete the 6.5 kilometer road so mules could transport supplies outside of the range of Austro-Hungarian artillery. We followed the via ferrata route to the top of a high peak while passing trenches dug by soldiers over one hundred years ago. On the return trip we hiked down through 31 of the 52 tunnels.

While the climbs had many challenging sections – physically and mentally – we felt safe and knew that Roberto wouldn’t take us on something we couldn’t handle. The breathtaking scenery and immense satisfaction after reaching the top spurred us on during difficult moments. Wildlife sightings of several chamois and even two wolves were an added treat. Our well-earned reward at the end of each day was a cold beer, and, on one occasion, a plate of homemade ravioli at a picturesque mountain farm.

Roberto’s expert guiding skills, knowledge of the history and culture of the Sudtirol area, and detailed planning and logistics all made for a fabulous, unforgettable experience.